Please wait a minute...
img img
高级检索
地球科学进展  2013, Vol. 28 Issue (6): 665-673    DOI: 10.11867/j.issn.1001-8166.2013.06.0665
综述与评述     
畸形波研究的进展及存在问题
刘首华1,2,牟林1,刘克修1,王兴3,李欢1,高佳1
1.国家海洋信息中心,天津 300171;2.中国科学院海洋研究所,海洋环流与波动重点实验室,山东 青岛 266071;3.国家海洋局北海环境监测中心,山东 青岛 266033
Research Advance and Problems in Freak Waves
Liu Shouhua1,2, Mu Lin1, Liu Kexiu1, Wang Xing3, Li Huan1, Gao Jia1
1.National Marine Data and Information Service, Tianjin 300171,China;2.Key Laboratory of Ocean Circulation and Waves, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Qingdao 266071, China; 3.North China Sea Environmental Monitoring Center, State Oceanic Administration, Qingdao 266033,China
 全文: PDF(2043 KB)  
摘要:

畸形波是近10年海浪研究领域的热点问题。作为一种新认识的物理现象,其经历了发现—认识—确认的认知过程。畸形波生成机制的研究目前取得了较大的进展,波列演化的调制不稳定性被认为是畸形波生成最具可能的原因。畸形波的研究及认识仍存在一些根本性的问题,这些问题的解决是正确及深入探究畸形波这种海洋物理现象的基础。通过对畸形波研究中存在的一些基本问题进行阐述和分析,探讨解决这些基本问题的思路及方法,为畸形波的研究提供一些有价值的参考。

关键词: 畸形波波浪海浪调制不稳定性    
Abstract:

Freak waves have been a hot issue during the last decades in ocean waves’ research. As a new physical phenomenon, it has gone through the progress of discoveryargumentationacceptance. It has gotten a lot of developments in dynamical and kinematical research. The modulation instability of water waves is considered to be the most probable candidate for freak waves’ occurrence. There are some fundamental questions that arise and need to be answered, which is important for the further research of freak waves with the right answer or proper comprehension. Some essential problems accompanied with freak waves’ research are presented and some ideas to solve it are argued. It’s supposed to be a useful reference for further research of freak waves.

Key words: Freak waves    Water waves    Ocean waves    Modulation instability
收稿日期: 2012-10-15 出版日期: 2013-06-10
:  P731.22  
基金资助:

国家自然科学基金项目“全球变暖背景下中国近海海平面季节特征变化研究”(编号:41006002);中国科学院海洋环流与波动重点实验室开放基金项目“风浪涌浪能量聚合的畸形波生成背景研究”(编号:KLOCAW1302)资助.

作者简介: 刘首华(1983-),男,山东安丘人,助理研究员,主要从事海浪、气候和海平面变化研究.E-mail:huazai950@hotmail.com
服务  
把本文推荐给朋友
加入引用管理器
E-mail Alert
RSS
作者相关文章  
刘首华
牟林
刘克修
王兴
李欢
高佳

引用本文:

刘首华,牟林,刘克修,王兴,李欢,高佳. 畸形波研究的进展及存在问题[J]. 地球科学进展, 2013, 28(6): 665-673.

Liu Shouhua, Mu Lin, Liu Kexiu, Wang Xing, Li Huan, Gao Jia. Research Advance and Problems in Freak Waves. Advances in Earth Science, 2013, 28(6): 665-673.

链接本文:

http://www.adearth.ac.cn/CN/10.11867/j.issn.1001-8166.2013.06.0665        http://www.adearth.ac.cn/CN/Y2013/V28/I6/665

[1]Draper L. “Freak”  ocean waves[J]. Marine Observation, 1965, 35: 193-195.

[2]Yang Guansheng, Dong Yanqiu, Chen Xuechuang. Freak wave[J]. Ocean Engineering, 2002, 120(14): 105-108.[杨冠声, 董艳秋, 陈学闯. 畸形波[J]. 海洋工程, 2002, 120(14): 105-108.]

[3]Haver S, Andersen O J. Freak waves-rare realizations of a typical extreme wave population or typical realizations of a rare extreme wave population?[C]∥Proceedings of the 10th (2000) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference(ISOPE-2000). Seattle, USA, 2000: 123-130.

[4]Mallory J K. Abnormal waves on the south-east of South Africa[J]. The International Hydrographic Review, 1974, 51: 89-129.

[5]Lawton G. Monsters of the deep (the perfect wave)[J]. New Scientist, 2001, 170(2 297): 28-32.

[6]Kharif C, Pelinovsky E. Physical mechanisms of the rogue wave phenomenon[J]. European Journal of Mechanics B:Fluids, 2003, 22: 603-634.

[7]Toffoli A, Lefevre J M, Monbaliu J, et al. Dangerous sea-states for marine operations[C]∥Proceedings of the 14th (2004) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference(ISOPE-2004). Toulon, France, 2004: 85-92.

[8]Liu P C, MacHutchon K R. Are there different kinds of rogue waves?[C]∥Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering (OMAE 2006). Hamburg, Germany, 2006.

[9]Paprota M, Przewl’ocki J, Sulisz W, et al. Extreme waves and wave events in the Baltic Sea[C]∥Proceedings of the MAXWAVE Final Meeting. Geneva, Switzerland, 2003.

[10]Pinho de U F, Liu P C, Ribeiro C E P. Freak waves at Campos Basin, Brazil[J]. Geofizika, 2004, 21: 53-67.

[11]Chien H, Kao C C, Chuang L Z H. On the characteristics of observed coastal freak waves[J]. Coastal Engineering Journal, 2002, 44(4): 301-319.

[12]Stansell P. Distributions of freak wave heights measured in the North Sea[J]. Applied Ocean Research, 2004, 26: 35-48.

[13]Stansell P. Distributions of extreme wave, crest and trough heights measured in the North Sea[J]. Ocean Engineering, 2005, 32: 1 015-1 036.

[14]Mori N, Liu P C, Yasuda T. Analysis of freak wave measurements in the Sea of Japan[J]. Ocean Engineering, 2002, 29: 1 399-1 414.

[15]Divinsky B V, Levin B V, Lopatukhin L I, et al. A freak wave in the

Black Sea: Observations and simulation[J]. Doklady Earth Sciences, 2004, 395A: 438-443.

[16]Forristall G Z. Understanding rogue waves: Are new physics really necessary?[C]∥Proceedings of the 14th ′Aha Huliko′a Hawaii Winter Workshop. Honolulu, USA, 2005: 29-35.

[17]Faulkner D. Rogue waves-defining their characteristics for marine design[C]∥Olagnon M, Athanassoulis G A, eds. Rogue Waves 2000. Ifremer, France, 2001: 3-18.

[18]Lehner S H. Extreme wave statistics from radar data sets[C]∥Proceedings of the 14th  ′Aha Huliko′a  Hawaiian Winter Workshop. Honolulu, USA, 2005.

[19]Rosenthal W. Results of the MAXWAVE project[C]∥Proceedings of the 14th ′Aha Huliko′a  Hawaiian Winter Workshop. Honolulu,  USA, 2005.

[20]Janssen P, Alpers W. Why SAR wave mode data of ERS and Envisat are inadequate for giving the probability of occurrence of freak waves[C]∥ Proceedings of SEASAR. Frascati, Italy,2006: 23-25.

[21]Dysthe K, Krogstad H E, Milller P. Oceanic rogue waves[J]. Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 2008, 40: 287-310.

[22]Klinting P, Sand S. Analysis of prototype freak waves[C]∥Coastal Hydrodynamics. ASCE, 1987: 618-632.

[23]Haver S. A possible freak wave event measured at the Draupner jacket January 1 1995[C]∥Rogue Waves 2004 Workshop. Brest, France, 2004.

[24]Haver S. Freak waves: A suggested definition and possible consequences for marine structures[C]∥Rogue Waves 2004 Workshop. Brest, France,  2004.

[25]Kharif C, Pelinovsky E, Slunyaev A. Rogue Waves in the Ocean[M]. Berlin: Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, 2009.

[26]Solli D R, Ropers C, Koonath P, et al. Optical rogue waves[J]. Nature, 2007, 450: 1 054-1 057.

[27]Ganshin A N, Mov V B E, Kolmakov G V, et al. Observation of an inverse energy cascade in developed acoustic turbulence in superfluid helium[J]. Physical Review Letters, 2008, 101(6): 1-4.

[28]Shats M, Punzmann H, Xia H. Capillary rogue waves[J]. Physical Review Letters, 2010, 104(10): 1-4.

[29]Kharif C, Giovanangeli J P, Touboul J, et al. Influence of wind on extreme wave events: Experimental and numerical approaches[J]. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2008, 594: 209-247. [30]Benjamin T B, Feir J E. The disintegration of wavetrains on deep water. Part 1: Theory[J]. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1967, 27: 417-430.

[31]Zakharov V E. Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid[J]. Journal of Applied Mechanics and Technical Physics, 1968, 9: 190-194.

[32]Davey A, Stewartson K. On the three-dimensional packets of surface waves[J]. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London, 1974, 338(1 613):101-110.

[33]Dysthe K B. Note on a modification to the nonlinear Schrdinger equation for application to deep water waves[J]. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London, 1979, A369: 105-114.

[34]Kit E, Shemer L, Pelinovsky E, et al. Nonlinear wave group evolution in shallow water[J].Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, 2000, 126(5): 221-228.

[35]Peterson P, Soomere T, Engelbrecht J, et al. Soliton interaction as a possible model for extreme waves[J].Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics, 2003, 10: 503-510.

[36]Zakharov V E, Dyachenko A I, Prokofiev A O. Freak wave as nonlinear stage of stokes wave modulation instability[J]. European Journal of Mechanics B:Fluids,2006, 25: 677-692.

[37]Henderson K L, Peregrine D H, Dold J W. Unsteady water wave modulations: Fully nonlinear solutions and comparison with the nonlinear Schrdinger equation[J]. Wave Motion, 1999, 29: 341-361.

[38]Bateman W J D, Swan C, Taylor P H. On the efficient numerical simulation of directionally spread surface water waves[J]. Journal of Computational Physics, 2001, 174: 277-305.

[39]Dyachenko A I, Zakharov V E. Modulation instability of stokes wave-freak wave[J]. Journal of Experimental and Theoretical Physics, 2005, 81: 255-259.

[40]Fochesato C, Grilli S, Dias F. Numerical modeling of extreme rogue waves generated by directional energy focusing[J]. Wave Motion, 2007, 44: 395-416.

[41]Tao Aifeng. Research on Water Waves Evolution and Freak Wave Mechanisum in Deep Water[D]. Nanjing: Hehai University, 2007.[陶爱峰. 深水波列演变及畸形波生成机制之数值探讨[D]. 南京: 河海大学, 2007.]

[42]Zhao Xizeng. Research on Freak Waves Base on Experimental and Simulation Methods[D]. Dalian: Dalian University of Technology, 2008.[赵西增. 畸形波的实验研究和数值模拟[D]. 大连: 大连理工大学, 2008.]

[43]White B S, Fornberg B. On the chance of freak waves at the sea[J]. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1998, 255:113-138.

[44]Guedes S C, Cherneva Z, Anto E M. Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states[J]. Applied Ocean Research, 2003, 25: 337-344.

[45]Liu P C, Chen H S, Doong D J, et al. Freaque waves during Typhoon Krosa[J]. Annals of Geophysics, 2009, 27: 2 633-2 642.

[46]Janssen P A E M. Nonlinear four-wave interactions and freak waves[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2003, 33: 863-884.

[47]Bertotti L, Cavaleri L. Analysis of the Voyager storm[J]. Ocean Engineering, 2008, 35: 1-5.

[48]Burgers G, Koek F, de Vries J W, et al. Searching for factors that limit observed extreme maximum wave height distributions in the North Sea[C]∥Extreme Ocean Waves. 2008: 127-138.

[49]Liu Shouhua. Study of Freak Waves Based on Numerical Ocean Waves Simulation[D]. Qingdao: Ocean University of China, 2010.[刘首华. 畸形波的海浪数值模拟研究[D]. 青岛: 中国海洋大学, 2010.]

[50]Gramstad O, Trulsen K. Influence of crest and group length on the occurrence of freak waves[J]. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2007, 582: 463-472.

[51]Mori N, Onorato M, Janssen P A E M. On the estimation of the Kurtosis in directional sea states for freak wave forecasting[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2011, 41: 1 484-1 497.

[52]Waseda T, Kinoshita T, Tamura H. Evolution of a random directional wave and freak wave occurrence[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2009, 39: 621-639.

[53]Masson D. On the nonlinear coupling between swell and wind waves[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 1993, 23: 1 249-1 258.

[54]Onorato M, Osborne A R, Serio M. Molulational instability in crossing sea states: A possible mechanism for the formation of freak waves[J]. Physical Review Letters, 2006, 96(1): 1-4.

[55]Toffoli A, Bitner-Gregersen E M, Osborne A R, et al. Extreme waves in random crossing seas: Laboratory experiments and numerical simulations[J]. Geophysical Research Letters, 2011, 38(6): 1-5.

[56]Yasuda T, Mori N. Roles of sideband instability and mode coupling in forming a water-wave chaos[J]. Wave Motion, 1997, 26: 163-185.

[57]Mori N, Janssen P A E M. On kurtosis and occurrence probability of freak waves[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2006, 36: 1 471-1 483.

[58]Kinsman B. Wind Waves[M]. New Jersey: Prentic-Hall Inc, 1965.

[59]Tayfun M A. Narrow-band nonlinear sea waves[J].Journal of Geophysical Research, 1985, 85(C3):1 548-1 552.

[60]Forristall G Z. On the statistical distribution of wave heights in a storm[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research, 1978, 83(C5): 2 353-2 358.

[61]Mori N. Occurrence probability of a freak wave in a nonlinear wave field[J]. Ocean Engineering,2004, 31: 165-175.

[62]Olagnon M, Prevosto M. Are rogue waves beyond conventional predictions?[C]∥Proceedings of the 14th ′Aha Huliko′a  Hawaii Winter Workshop. Honolulu, USA,2005: 37-42.

[1] 赵栋梁. 海洋飞沫及其对海—气相互作用影响的研究进展[J]. 地球科学进展, 2012, 27(6): 624-632.
[2] 李 华,杨世伦. 潮间带盐沼植物对海岸沉积动力过程影响的研究进展[J]. 地球科学进展, 2007, 22(6): 583-591.