畸形波研究的进展及存在问题

doi:10.11867/j.issn.1001-8166.2013.06.0665

地球科学进展 ›› 2013, Vol. 28 ›› Issue (6): 665 -673. doi: 10.11867/j.issn.1001-8166.2013.06.0665

畸形波研究的进展及存在问题

刘首华 ^1,2，牟林 ¹，刘克修 ¹，王兴 ³，李欢 ¹，高佳 ¹

1.国家海洋信息中心，天津 300171；2.中国科学院海洋研究所，海洋环流与波动重点实验室，山东青岛 266071；3.国家海洋局北海环境监测中心，山东青岛 266033

收稿日期:2012-10-15 修回日期:2013-02-27 出版日期:2013-06-10
基金资助:
国家自然科学基金项目“全球变暖背景下中国近海海平面季节特征变化研究”（编号：41006002）；中国科学院海洋环流与波动重点实验室开放基金项目“风浪涌浪能量聚合的畸形波生成背景研究”（编号：KLOCAW1302）资助.

Research Advance and Problems in Freak Waves

Liu Shouhua ^1,2, Mu Lin ¹, Liu Kexiu ¹, Wang Xing ³, Li Huan ¹, Gao Jia ¹

1.National Marine Data and Information Service, Tianjin 300171，China；2.Key Laboratory of Ocean Circulation and Waves, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Qingdao 266071, China; 3.North China Sea Environmental Monitoring Center, State Oceanic Administration, Qingdao 266033，China

Received:2012-10-15 Revised:2013-02-27 Online:2013-06-10 Published:2013-06-10

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畸形波是近10年海浪研究领域的热点问题。作为一种新认识的物理现象，其经历了发现—认识—确认的认知过程。畸形波生成机制的研究目前取得了较大的进展，波列演化的调制不稳定性被认为是畸形波生成最具可能的原因。畸形波的研究及认识仍存在一些根本性的问题，这些问题的解决是正确及深入探究畸形波这种海洋物理现象的基础。通过对畸形波研究中存在的一些基本问题进行阐述和分析，探讨解决这些基本问题的思路及方法，为畸形波的研究提供一些有价值的参考。

关键词: 畸形波, 波浪, 海浪, 调制不稳定性

Freak waves have been a hot issue during the last decades in ocean waves’ research. As a new physical phenomenon, it has gone through the progress of discoveryargumentationacceptance. It has gotten a lot of developments in dynamical and kinematical research. The modulation instability of water waves is considered to be the most probable candidate for freak waves’ occurrence. There are some fundamental questions that arise and need to be answered, which is important for the further research of freak waves with the right answer or proper comprehension. Some essential problems accompanied with freak waves’ research are presented and some ideas to solve it are argued. It’s supposed to be a useful reference for further research of freak waves.

Key words: Freak waves, Water waves, Ocean waves, Modulation instability

中图分类号:

P731.22

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